THE $KULL by Philipp Plein
Customer
Philipp Plein Parfumes SA
Origin
Italy
Expertise
Weight, thickness of bottle
“I am a dreamer and a believer. I dreamt of launching a perfume years ago, I just wanted to wait for the right moment and the right partners. PHILIPP PLEIN exists for a reason; we are born to be different. So today it is because of our game-changing spirit that this dream is coming true. My first perfume creation is completely different from anything that already exists in the industry and from now on that industry will never be the same again.”
PHILIPP PLEIN, FOUNDER & OWNER OF PHILIPP PLEIN GROUP
THE $KULL marked Philipp Plein’s entry into the world of perfumery. Created as a Perfume Art Edition, the fragrance reflects the fashion designer’s bold aesthetic and his preference for designs that challenge convention.
The bottle takes the form of a three-dimensional, multifaceted skull, resembling a black diamond carved from solid glass. Finished in black lacquer, it was conceived as a sculptural object rather than a conventional perfume bottle.
The fragrance itself was developed by Philipp Plein in collaboration with internationally renowned master perfumer Alberto Morillas. Presented in a concentrated parfum formulation, THE $KULL was created to make a strong impression, both through its scent and its presentation.
Turning this ambitious concept into a glass bottle required an equally unconventional approach to manufacturing.
The skull’s complex geometry presented several technical challenges for Vaider Group (formerly HRASTNIK1860). Its considerable weight, relatively thin glass walls and unusual proportions had to be carefully balanced to achieve the required 125 ml capacity.
One of the main concerns was the distance between the sculpted skull features on either side of the bottle. The initial design specified a side width of 25 mm, but technical analysis showed that adjustments were necessary to accommodate the glass distribution and required volume.
The bottle’s narrow FEA15 neck presented another challenge. With approximately 380 g of glass, particular attention was needed to prevent cracking around the opening.
The wide body and sharply defined corners also made it difficult to distribute molten glass evenly throughout the mould. Some areas were positioned far from the point where the glass entered, making precise control of the blowing process essential.
The project also involved several components that had to fit accurately with the glass, including the collar and the sculpted details of the skull.
The development team began by studying existing bottles with comparable technical requirements. Using Siemens NX 3D modelling and mould simulation, they assessed the feasibility of the original design and identified the adjustments needed for production.
The analysis established a minimum side width of 27 mm, allowing the bottle to retain its intended 125 ml capacity while improving the distribution of glass. The revised dimensions were reviewed and incorporated into the final technical drawings.
Particular attention was given to the collar and the recessed outlines of the skull. Tool modifications, carried out using CNC machining, helped refine the mould geometry and improve the definition of the sculpted details.
The FEA15 neck required a specific thermal treatment. The upper section was heated on the production machine and cooled immediately after blowing to achieve the necessary strength and reduce the risk of cracking.
Producing the wide, angular body also demanded precise machine settings to ensure that molten glass reached the distant corners of the mould and formed the skull’s features consistently.
Through 3D analysis, mould adjustments and careful control of the glass-blowing process, the team was able to manufacture the complex 125 ml bottle while preserving the defining features of Philipp Plein’s original design.
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